There were several adjustments I made to this pattern, and it took me 2 muslins to figure out how to make them work. However, the time was well worth it. I quickly realized these are adjustments that I will most likely need on every pattern going forward, so it was a good idea to experiment and figure them out with this basic pattern.
Look at my crazy notes! These were just the adjustments made between muslins and before my first version.
I ended up cutting a size 2, even though my measurements determine I should fit perfectly into a size 4 in Colette Patterns. I’ve noticed, though, from making the Ginger skirt in the past, that the waist was a bit too big. There’s nothing I hate more than a sagging skirt, so I cut out the size 2 this time – and it ended up fitting perfectly!
Adjustments made as follows:
- Added waistband, according to the pattern adjustment and sewing tutorials on the Coletterie blog.
- 1/2″ swayback adjustment, made according to instructions in the Colette Sewing Handbook.
- Drafted my first lining! I figured this out using Tasia’s post on sewing a lining to the Sewaholic Cambie dress.
- Added 1 5/8″ length to the skirt.
- Decreased back dart size by 1/4″. I can’t remember where I read about this adjustment, but I’ve noticed from previous patterns that there’s always extra fabric right above my butt. Turns out decreasing the dart size in the back turned out to be the perfect adjustment for my flat backside.
- I used a black jacquard fabric that was fairly thick, and stiff. The stiffness helped keep the scallops looking crisp. I originally thought this would be the perfect winter skirt, but after trying it on without tights, I’ve decided it has a more summer-feel to it.
- As mentioned above, this was my first lining. I couldn’t find a simple instruction anywhere on how to draft my own lining, so I pondered this one for several days before I figured out how to make this work with the waistband and this style skirt. Thanks to Tasia’s post on sewing a lining to the Sewaholic Cambie dress, I feel much more comfortable with sewing a lining to the zipper, and have a feeling I’ll use this method on many of my garments going forward!
- Everything else went together well without any problem – except for the scallops. It could be because I waited until I did my final version before sewing the facing to the hem – but I had some trouble with bulkiness at the side seams. I eliminated this by trimming the seam allowance right up to the side seams, which seemed to do the trick.
I have plans to make two more versions of this skirt.
In thinking about what I want to accomplish with my sewing this year, I’ve decided that customizing a pattern to fit me perfectly is not worth it unless I make at least 3 different versions of the garment before moving on to the next. Maybe some day when I start making really advanced patterns, I’ll change this goal. But since I only have plans to sew only Beginner patterns, I think it’s feasible to make 3 different looks from the same pattern, just by changing the fabric and making small customizations. Also – there are always things I’d like to change or improve about a completed garment, and striving to make 3 different versions will allow me to make refinements along the way.
I hope you enjoyed taking a look my first completed garment of 2013!